From the 16th to 19th September 2010, Melbourne will see the launch of its only dedicated environmental film festival. This smorgasbord of feature length documentaries on cutting-edge environmental issues will entertain, inspire and frighten even the most hardened environmental cynic. Covering topics from the social unrest in Nigeria caused by Big Oil, to the consequences of our society’s obsession with The Plastic Bag, to the philosophy and dinner plates of Californian dumpster divers, there is something to whet everyone’s appetite. Read more at http://www.effm.org.au/

Oh, and just so we are all on the same page, nectarines are essentially a smooth-skinned peach…that’s why we have whacked them all together on the one factsheet.

Peaches and nectarines grow really well in our Melbourne environs, as we have the perfect mild climate, and a nice cold winter. Now, if you live in an area of Melbourne that is prone to late frosts, consider protecting your peaches and nectarines with shadecloth or similar, as these late/spring frosts can severely damage the flowers (and impact yield).

Find a nice sunny position in your patch for these super stone-fruit, ensuring the soil is full of organic matter and free draining. This can be a bit of a challenge on some of our heavy clay Melbourne soils, so incorporate some gypsum and compost prior to planting, and consider planting your peaches on a mound to improve drainage.

Food wise, give your peaches and nectarines a bit of seaweed feed a couple of times a year (Spring or Autumn). This will not only help them grow big and strong, but it can also act to deter the dreaded “Peach Leaf Curl” fungus, the bane of peach growers everywhere. The secret to fighting this funky fungal disease is “winter washing”, which involves spraying your trees with a low environmental impact lime sulphur spray, several times over the winter dormancy period, until bud burst. What this does is prevent fungal spores from taking hold, and will go a long way to preventing issues come spring time. Ripper!

Peaches and nectarines are best left on the tree until ripe, as their flavour is far more intense, however, fruit picked while firm is fantastic for cooking and will still ripen away from the tree.

These superb stonefruit are ideal for smaller gardens, as they are generally self fertile, meaning they don’t require another tree for cross pollination. But, if you are really pushed for space, consider a dwarf nectarine or peach, a multi-grafted tree, or a multi-grafted dwarf (half peach, half nectarine)! Some of the fabulous varieties we stock here at the nursery include:

Nectarine – Arctic Rose: Freestone, New generation of white fleshed nectarine. Picked and eaten when still quite firm they are a taste sensation. Matures throughout February. Spray at bud swell with copper to control curly leaf. Prune previous season’s growth as required.white flesh. Picked firm, they are very sweet with little or no fruit acid. A delicious, new, very sweet flavour with little or no fruit acid. Bright red colour over a creamy-green background. Used mainly for fresh fruit but has potential for drying, bottling and cooking. Freestone.Fruits February. Best eaten fresh. Self fertile
Nectarine – Early Rivers: An easy to grow fruit tree, that can be maintained in a large pot. Two years to first fruit, and four years to high high yeild. Spray at bud swell with copper to control curly leaf. Prune previous season’s growth. Mid-season bearer. An older variety that bears well and has tender and juicy, rich crimson blushed coloured fruit over yellow skin. Delicious yellow flesh fruit. Excellent for eating fresh, stewing, preserving or drying. Self-fertile.
Nectarine – Flavortop: Yellow flesh, freestone. Vigorous and productive. Large firm fruit with melting texture and great flavour. Matures late January to Mid February. Fresh fruit, drying, bottling and cooking. Self fertile
Nectarine – Goldmine: Freestone, white flesh. Excellent flavour, sweet and juicy. A reliable cropper. Fruits February. Fresh fruit, drying and cooking. Fruit does not keep well. Self fertile
Nectarine – May Grand: Freestone, yellow flesh. Excellent flavour, firm flesh. Late December to Mid January. Fresh fruit, drying and cooking. Self fertile
Medium-sized fruit with good flavour. Late January to February. Best eaten fresh. Self fertile
Nectarine – Queen Giant: Freestone, white flesh. Crisp and juicy with very good flavour. Mid to late January Fresh fruit and drying. Self fertile

Nectarine 3 Way Multi-Graft Goldmine / May Grand / Fantasia: A combo of white and yellow flesh fruit. Fantasia: excellent yellow flesh freestone, large fruit. Late December to Mid February. Fresh fruit, drying and cooking. Self fertile

Dwarf Nectarine – Nectazee: Freestone, yellow flesh. Compact tree for small gardens.

Peach – Daisy: White flesh, freestone. Firm and juicy with good flavour. Mid January to February. A quality peach best used for fresh fruit. Self fertile.
Peach – Double Jewel: Yellow flesh, freestone. Juicy fruit with good flavour. Good cropper. January. For fresh eating, drying, juice and stewing. Self fertile.
Peach – Elberta: Yellow flesh, freestone. Soft flesh fruit. Heavy and reliable cropper. February. Fresh fruit, juice, stewing and drying. Self fertile or use J.H.Hale.
Peach – Golden Queen: Yellow flesh, clingstone. Firm and juicy. Heavy cropper requires thinning. Mid to late March Fresh fruit, juice and especially for preserving. Self fertile.
Peach – Peacharine: Cross of peach and nectarine. Smooth skin and peach like flavour. Yellow flesh, freestone. Late January to mid February. Fresh fruit, juice, stewing and drying. Self fertile.
Peach – Redhaven: Yellow flesh, freestone. Very good flavour, medium texture and moderately juicy. Matures mid-late season. Used for fresh fruit, stewing and drying.
Peach – Tasty Zee: White flesh, freestone. Very sweet, juicy and firm. Matures late season, early to mid February. Used for fresh fruit and drying.
Peach – Anzac: White flesh, freestone. Soft and juicy when ripe. A very good bearer although quality may vary. Early maturing, late December to January. Used for fresh fruit and juice.

Peach 2 Way Multi-Graft Tasty Zee/ Doublejewel: A combo of white and yellow flesh fruit. Fresh fruit, drying and cooking. Self fertile.
Peach 3 Way Multi-Graft Redhaven/Tasty Zee/ Doublejewel: A combo of white and yellow flesh fruit. Fresh fruit, drying and cooking. Self fertile.

Dwarf Peach – Pixzee: Yellow flesh, freestone. Excellent flavour. Dwarf tree for small gardens. Fruit is normal size. Fresh fruit but has potential for drying, bottling and cooking. Self fertile

Peach/Nectarine Multi-Graft Dwarf: Your two favourite fruits on one dwarf tree! This magic little miniature is a multi-graft with Pixzee (Dwarf Peach) and Nectazee (Dwarf Nectarine). A self fertile combo, would do well in a big pot. Thin fruit to improve fruit set and minimize plant health issues.

Angelina (Angelina Burdette)
Picking: Mid January to February
European plum. Oval, freestone, dark purple skin with a heavy bloom. Yellow, firm, sweet and juicy flesh. Heavy crops require annual thinning.
Fresh fruit, drying, jam and stewing.
King Billy (best choice), President
Coe’s Golden Drop
Picking: Late February to March.
European plum. Round-oval fruit, green-yellow skin. Firm, juicy, yellow flesh with rich, sweet flavour when ripe. Reliable crops
Fresh fruit, drying and jam.
Cross pollinators: Green Gage, Damson & Robe de Sergeant.
Coles Golden Gage
Picking: Late February to March
European plum. High quality, clear yellow flesh, golden skin and an excellent sweet flavour.
Fresh fruit, bottling or dessert.
Cross pollinators: Green Gage, President, D’Agen & Coe’s Golden Drop
Crimson Glow
Picking: Matures early to mid-season.
Japanese Plum recently introduced to Australia. A very good, sweet flavoured Japanese Plum with dark red skin, and firm and juicy red flesh. Clingstone. A very good and sweet flavour. 4m x 4m
Cross pollinates with Flavour Supreme.
Damson
Picking: February.
Strong upright growth with good crops of small, very sweet plums. Dark red-purple skin with bloom. Very sweet, yellow, firm flesh with slight tartness.
Excellent for jam, drying, cooking or fresh.
Self-fertile
Green Gage
Picking: mid season
Round, green- yellow skin, white bloom. Very sweet, green to yellow flesh. Heavy crops when established.
Fresh fruit, jam, drying and cooking.
Cross pollinators: Coe’s Golden Drop, Damson, Robe de Sergeant, or a European plum that flowers at the same time.
King Billy
Picking: Mid January to mid February.
European plum similar to Angelina, but larger and slightly more acidic. Dark purple skin, heavy bloom. Clingstone, juicy, pale green-yellow skin.
Fresh fruit, jam, drying and cooking.
Cross pollinators: Angelina & President.
Luisa
Picking: Matures early February.
Japanese plum. Mid-season bloom. Having some disease resistance makes this cultivar easier to grow organically. It is generally a good cropper.
Luisa has a distinctive elongated-heart shaped fruit, with yellow flesh. The flavour is intensely sweet and juicy.
Self-fertile.
Mariposa (Blood Plum)
Picking: Late January to February.
Japanese plum. Improved Satsuma blood plum. Dark maroon skin, fine textured, sweet juicy, soft blood red flesh.
Fresh fruit, juice, jam and stewing.
Cross pollinators: Narrabeen, Santa Rosa, Satsuma & Salad.
Narrabeen
Picking: Mid January to mid February.
Japanese plum bred in NSW. Large, round, deep pink-red fruit with bloom. Freestone, creamy-white, firm, sweet and juicy flesh. Mature trees have distinctive twisted habit.
Fresh fruit, jam and stewing.
Cross pollinators: Mariposa, Satsuma, Santa Rosa, & Salad.
Pizazz
Picking: Matures early season, approx January.
The skin is dark blue to very dark purple-black. Flesh is yellow and sweet, firm and juicy.Clingstone.
Cross pollinators: Possibly Mariposa.
Pluot – Flavour Supreme
Picking: February to March.
Interspecific plum (hybrid between plum and apricot). Bright red, very sweet with an aroma of apricot and no tart aftertaste.
Fresh fruit and is excellent for making jam or drying.
Cross pollinators: Mariposa.
President
Picking: Late February to mid March.
European plum. Large freestone. Deep purple skin with bloom and slightly acid taste. Yellow, medium textured, firm, sweet and juicy flesh. Heavy and regular crops.
Fresh fruit, jam, drying and stewing. Fruit keeps well.
Cross pollinators: Angelina & King Billy.
Primetime
Picking: Mid to late season maturity.
Japanese Plum. Great for eating fresh, stewing or preserving. Medium to large firm and meaty fruit, with red to dark-blue skin and a yellow flesh, which becomes red as it matures. Moderate juice.
Cross pollinates with Ausibelle and Angeleno.
Ruby Blood
Picking: Late January to February.
Japanese plum. Dark red skin with rich, dark red, juicy, sweet flesh.
Fresh fruit, jam and stewing.
Cross pollinators: Mariposa, Santa Rosa & Queen Rosa.
Santa Rosa
Picking: Early to mid January.
Japanese plum. Medium, round, bright red to purple fruit and yellow, sweet flesh. Good eating and keeping qualities. Clingstone.
Fresh fruit, jam and stewing.
Partially self fertile. Cross pollinators: Mariposa, Satsuma, Queen Rosa, Narrabeen, Salad & Donsworth.
Satsuma
Picking: Early to mid February.
Japanese blood plum. Medium, round plum, mottled dark red skin and flesh. Firm, juicy, sweet, spicy flavour with a slight tang. Freestone.
Fresh fruit, stewing and excellent for jam and preserving.
Cross pollinators: Santa Rosa.
Sugar Plum
Picking: February.
European Plum. Small, red-dark red skin with bloom. Extremely sweet, yellow flesh. Heavy and regular crops.
Fresh fruit and is excellent for making jam or drying.
Partially self fertile, Cross pollinators: Damson & Robe de Sergeant
Wickson
Picking: Mid-season.
Japanese Plum. Popular for eating fresh. A Large, heart shaped fruit with greenish-yellow skin. A firm, but very juicy and refreshing plum with clear flesh. Freestone.
Self-fertile, although having another Japanese plum can increase fruit production.
Prune – D’Agen
Picking: Mid to late February
European plum. Small, dark red to dark blue skin, yellow, firm, very sweet flesh. Heavy cropper.
Fresh fruit, jam and stewing. It is an excellent drying cultivar.
Self-fertile, or cross-pollinate with Robe de Sargeant
Prune – Robe de Sargeant
Picking: Late January to February.
Medium sized oval, dark purple-blue skin, yellow, very sweet flavour.
Fresh fruit, jam and drying.
Cross pollinators: Green Gage, Damson and Coe’s Golden Drop.
Plumcot
Picking: Late January to early February.
A cross between an apricot and a plum. Apricot sized fruit. Pale yellow to red furry skin. Orange flesh has good plum-apricot flavour.
Fresh fruit and jam.
Cross pollinators: Mariposa Plum & Story Apricot. Pollination can be sporadic.

The chemicals commonly used to control codling moth also kill beneficial insect species, which contribute to biological control of other pests. Consequently increased chemical sprays are required for control of other pests. The most successful way to avoid this problem is to use Integrated Pest Management (IPM). Using a combination of pheromones and sticky traps, good orchard hygiene and traps will help you avoid the revolting coddling moth.

Adult female codling moths release a sex-attractant chemical (pheromone) to attract male codling moths. By using a pheromone impregnated lure in conjunction with a sticky trap, male moths are trapped before they can mate with a female, thus reducing the number of eggs laid. There are now dual pheromone lures available which attract both male and female moths. Very simple. Start the pheromone traps in late August to early September and continue on for all of spring and summer.

For those eggs which do hatch, you can spray the emerging caterpillars with Dipel or Success. These sprays are specific to caterpillars and will not damage beneficial insects. However, the window of opportunity to spray is short, as the caterpillars will find their way into the fruit within a few days of hatching

Any caterpillars which do munch on your apples or pears (or quince, nashies or crab apples) will be looking to find a nice safe spot to spin a cocoon and over-winter in, before they hatch into moths next spring and start the whole ugly cycle again. You can use this to your advantage. Before winter remove loose bark from your trees and clean up any fallen apples and debris from the ground. This will reduce the survival of over wintering populations. Then provide artificial cocooning sites, such as wrapping a band of corrugated cardboard around the trunk of the tree. Check these every few weeks and destroy any larvae, further reducing numbers.

Oriental Fruit Moth Cydia molesta
Less well known than its cousin, the OFM commonly attacks stone fruits. The moths are active once day time temperatures get above 18C, so expect activity to start around late August to September. The first generation of caterpillars appear before there are any fruit set, so they eat the young shoots which will wilt and die. After 4 weeks the caterpillars spin cocoons (usually high up in the tree), rapidly pupate and emerge as moths between mid November and early January. These will lay eggs which hatch into caterpillars which will then eat both young shoots and any fruit that is available. Several generations can occur over the course of the season, but the final generation will be looking for a safe over-wintering place where they will spin their cocoons and wait until late August when they will emerge as moths.

Treat OFM much as you would codling moth, but use a pheromone lure specific to OFM. Also prune trees each year to encourage an open canopy where birds and predators can get in and eat the moths. Thin the fruit as larvae more easily enter fruit that is touching another fruit.

Figs are a versatile fruit, able to be eaten fresh, glazed, dried, poached and cooked, and they are a darned healthy little option as well.  Figs are high in fibre, pack a punch of vitamin C and the sap of fig trees is reportedly useful in getting rid of warts!  Ah figs, is there anything you can’t do?

Growing figs is a breeze in Melbourne, where our hot dry summers and cooler winters make for top-notch trees.  As an added bonus, figs cope fairly well through periods of drought, although their fruit production may be affected over time.

The secret to figs is a nice, rich, free-draining soil with a neutral pH, heaps of lovely organic matter (like BAAG compost) and a layer of straw mulch.  Often figs are planted in raised beds or mounds, to ensure drainage is sufficient.  Find a sunny spot with not too much wind, in a position where you can enjoy the summer shade provided by this top tree.  That said, I have seen figs surviving and producing wonderful crops in the most inhospitable environments imaginable.  They really are the survivors of the fruit tree world.

Pests of fig trees are fairly minimal, but you may have to fight with the birds and possums to be the first at the figs!  In fact, many figs require a wasp to pollinate the flowers…so think very carefully before using chemicals and traps in your backyard that may harm these wonderful wasps.

Harvesting figs is easy, and they should be picked when they are slightly soft to the touch and smelling sweet.  Figs will NOT continue to ripen once they have been removed from the tree, so pick them when you need them and handle them with care as they can bruise easily.

For our full range of fantastic figs, head into the nursery and have a gander.  But, in the meanwhile, here is a selection of beaut fruits:

Black Genoa: Excellent flavour. Large, conical, greenish purple skin, dark red, rich sweet flesh. Reliable, heavy cropper. Two crops a year. Vigorous, spreading tree. February for three months.Fresh fruit, drying and jam. Self-Pollinating.
Brown Turkey: Large, conical, brown skin, pink sweet-flavoured flesh. Vigorous, productive and hardy.    Early Summer and late autumn. Fresh fruit, drying and jam. Self-Pollinating.
Preston Prolific: Very thick flesh, creamy white and juicy, with sweet flavour. Extremely vigorous and late cropping. Harvested February to March.
White Adriatic: A vigorous Fig variety, usually producing one crop a year (the breba crop can be very light). The fruit is good for drying, but is also delicious fresh. Brown green skin over pink flesh with excellent sweet flavour.
Self fertile.
White Genoa: Large, conical, yellow-green skin, red-pink sweet, mild flavoured flesh. Suits cooler areas. Lighter cropper than other varieties. Early Summer and late autumn. Fresh fruit, drying and jam.    Self pollinating.

Chives are definitely not needy and will thrive in just about any type of soil. A little bit of compost mixed through the soil prior to planting is ideal and if planting in a pot, go for an organic potting mix.  Chives in pots should have their soil replaced every three years to enhance the flavour and performance.

Planting Time: September – March
Position: Full sun – part shade
Water Needs: Low
Difficulty: Easy
How Long: Any time is a good time for chives.

Both garlic and onion chives will thrive in a full sun to partially shaded position, provided they are protected from strong winds. If planting in a pot, go for one about 30cm wide, as chives can form clumps of up to 50cm wide.

Possibly the least demanding of all our herbs, chives are happy not to be fed at all. If growth seems a little slow, or you have been harvesting a great deal, give them a drink of compost tea. Do the same if re-potting, or dividing up large clumps.

Chives are fairly drought tolerant, although those grown in pots (especially terracotta) have a tendency to dry out fairly quickly. A drink once or twice a week is sufficient if chives are planted in a rich soil or potting mix and mulched well.

Harvest as needed throughout the life of your chives.

As well as being hardy, chives are an excellent companion plant in the vegie and flower patch. Said to repel aphids, many rose growers swear by garlic chives as companion plants.  Also believed to prevent apple scab.

Planting Time: September – December
Position: Full sun
Water Needs: Low
Difficulty: Easy
How Long: These two are ready when you are

A warm, but not hot spot, in full sun is ideal for both of these herbs. Great as rockery plantings, in pots, or along borders.

In the vegie bed, marjoram and oregano will respond well to a soil with a moderate amount of compost and decent drainage. Don’t overdo it, as soils that are too moist and too high in organic matter may see marjoram rot off. Try to maintain a neutral pH (7), as this will give you a more productive and flavourful harvest. In pots, always choose a good quality organic potting mix.

Worm wee or a pelleted chook-based fertiliser should be applied at planting and again after flowering to keep these two herbs happy.

Water is where oregano and marjoram can be a bit fussy. While they love a sunny, warm spot, they also like a bit of moisture, so mulch well and water regularly. As they are shallow rooted, both these guys have a tendency to dry out rapidly, especially in warm, windy weather, so vigilance is the key!  Ease off on the watering over cooler months to prevent rotting.

Like many culinary herbs, marjoram and oregano can essentially be harvested as required. Bear in mind that oregano leaves have a more robust flavour when dried, so harvest these in advance. The harvest will be
increased by ‘dead heading’ (removing spent flower heads) after flowering.

Here’s a tip for trivia night – the terms marjoram and oregano are often used interchangeably and often describe the exact same herb. While they are closely related, oregano is essentially the wild form of marjoram.

Positioning parsley depends on the variety of parsley you choose to grow – flat leaved ‘Italian’ parsley loves a hot spot in full sun, whereas the ‘Curly’ parsley will do best in a part sun position, where it receives about four hours of sun a day.

Planting Time: All year
Position: Full sun – part shade
Water Needs: Low
Difficulty: Easy
How Long: Give it a couple of weeks

Parsley loves nothing more than a rich soil, chock full of compost. If growing in pots, which parsley loves, choose an organic potting mix. Both types of parsley do best with a neutral pH, so aim for about pH 7.

Like many leafy, green vegies and herbs, parsley will respond really well to regular feeding. Use a liquid seaweed feed at planting time and then continue weekly until plants are about 20-25cm tall.

Ever heard the term ‘wet feet’? Well, this applies to parsley! They like it damp and will run to seed rapidly if left to dry out. For a prolonged lifespan and healthier plants, water every second morning (but only if the soil is not damp).

Parsley suffers from very few issues but watch out for snails and slugs. If left to bolt to seed, you may find parsley throughout your garden in years to come.

So when is parsley ready to roll? There is no specific time limit here, but, as a rule, wait until two rows of nice, strong stalks have formed and harvest, as required, from the outside. Parsley is a biennial, so, in the right spot, it should continue to grow and provide much parsley for a couple of years

All varieties of parsley are said to make excellent companion plants for both tomatoes and asparagus and apparently improve the flavour of both significantly, so pop some in your patch and taste the difference.

All oranges are self-fertile, small to medium evergreen trees. They have large, dark green, glossy and aromatic foliage. The pure white flowers also fill their surroundings with their characteristic scent in spring.

The trees themselves grow large, but are easily kept pruned to a height and width of approx. 4 metres. All oranges prefer a sunny aspect with protection from frost.

As we know, they produce juicy fruit packed with Vitamin C and are generally eaten fresh or juiced. Blood Oranges are excellent for garnishing too.

Orange trees are perfect for hedging, screening, espalier, shade and as a specimen tree in any garden. Dwarf varieties can be used in pots to lend a Mediterranean feel to your courtyard garden.

Varieties

Blood Oranges

Maltese

Maltese is an older variety of blood orange that develops a more regular and distinct red pigmentation in hot, dry areas with cold nights. It has a sharp, sweet flavour and the small fruit has a blood red splash on the skin. The flesh is very juicy and seedy.

Arnold

Discovered by Mike Arnold in South Australia, this is a newer variety that produces a red pigmentation in coastal climates. Better colour is produced in cooler climates. The smallish fruit ripens mid-winter and has a distinctive tang. The tree is also small and bushy, making it suitable for pots or a small garden.

Cara Cara

A naval orange producing large seedless fruit that are very sweet. Unlike other blood oranges that produce the red pigmentation along the veins in the flesh of the fruit, the Cara flesh is all the same colour. Temperature can alter the colour.

Naval Oranges

Lane’s Late Naval

Originates from Portugal and Brazil. The tasty fruit begins to ripen in early spring and lasts until December. It has large fruit with a deep orange colour. It is easy to peel with very few seeds, much like other navels. One of the best oranges for fresh eating.

Leng Naval

This early ripening variety originated in Victoria and produces a fruit which is smaller and paler than a Washington navel. It has few seeds and a thin skin, making it a great choice for juicing.

Washington Naval

The richest and sweetest of all the oranges, the Washington navel has a low heat requirement and is the earliest to ripen (usually from May to June). It is the most popular backyard orange in Australia and is best eaten fresh. It is excellent for juicing, but must be drunk immediately as it will become bitter on standing. Oranges are medium to large, depending on the quantity of fruit set, and very sweet and juicy. Skin is relatively easy to peel and, being a navel, the fruit is seedless.

Navalina

An excellent cultivar imported from Spain in the 1980’s. Navelina has fruit which ripens around the end of April into May, making it a fantastic early season naval orange. It is sweet, seedless and juicy. Fruit can be slightly oblong in shape and naturally develops an attractive dark orange skin. The tree is compact and bushy.

Newhall Naval

The fruit is an unusual oval shape and is said to be the sweetest navel, making this variety a winner!

Toc Summer Naval

Fruit is large and very juicy with an excellent flavour. Toc Summer navel is a late holding navel and crops well into summer. For those gardeners with space, planting a Navelina, Washington and Lanes Late will find themselves harvesting Navels for up to six months of the year.

Valencia Oranges

Valencia

Valencia has a high heat requirement, but works well in Melbourne if you leave the fruit on the tree for a long time. This makes it the last of all oranges to ripen. Leaving fruit on the tree helps to develop full flavour and sweetness. The fruit generally starts to ripen in October and can be left on the tree until the following April. Valencias require that perfect ‘hot spot’ in the garden. The fruit is large, juicy and relatively seedless, and sometimes a challenge to peel. Keeps well and produces excellent juice, second only to Navals when eaten fresh. Ripe fruit holds on the tree for months. Use tasting as your harvest guide.

Seedless Valencia

Very similar to the Valencia. The fruit ripens a little earlier but will still hang on the tree for up to 6 months. Although named seedless, this variety will produce a few seeds if pollinated by other varieties.

Sweet Oranges

Joppa

This is one of the original varieties brought here by the first fleet. Not widely grown these days, but it is an underrated backyard orange. The tree is a strong grower and produces fruit mid-winter. Oranges are medium sized, thin skinned with a good flavour and are exceptionally juicy. They have a few seeds and well worth a try. It crops consistently every year.

Mediterranean a.k.a Parramatta

This sweet orange grows on a vigorous tree and produces a medium sized fruit that contains only a few seeds. The flesh is pale and has a mild flavour. The easy to peel fruit has a pale orange skin at maturity and has the tendency to re-green.

Sour Oranges

Seville

Seville is also called the sour or bitter orange, and once tasted you will understand why. Only really used for making jam and marmalade. It has large flattish fruit. They have a sharp bitter tang and many seeds. The fruit ripens in mid-winter. It is a strong growing tree and makes a very attractive specimen tree.

Bergamot

This tree has been grown in the Mediterranean area since the seventeenth century. The oils from the fruit peel are what make this orange famous. Oil of Bergamot is used mainly in perfume and produced throughout southern France, Italy and Paraguay. The fruit are small and smooth with a bright yellow skin when fully ripe. Similar to a Tahitian lime. You can make delicious marmalade from the skins and flesh or use the juice in place of a lemon.

For general information on growing citrus trees, click here

Mandarins are attractive, evergreen, compact trees. They have small glossy green leaves which contrast beautifully with the intense orange fruit. They are self-fertile and fruit easily when given full sun, fertiliser and a well drained soil that is kept moist over the fruiting period. Thinning of flowers encourages larger fruit to form.

Mandarins are commonly used for screening, hedging, espalier or specimen plantings.

Dwarf varieties are also available for growing in large pots. Eat fresh or use in desserts.

Varieties

Clementine

An old variety which benefits from cross-pollination with Valencia oranges as it increases fruit production. Pruning to thin the crop and let more light in will also reduce dieback. Fruit can be left on the tree without deterioration. Clementine produces a small, red-orange fruit with an excellent, aromatic flavour. It can become seedy if seedy citrus are grown nearby. The fruit ripens mid-winter.

Emperor

Emperor is a vigorous and cold resistant variety of mandarin that reaches approx. 5m tall by 4m wide. The fruit ripens during May and August and must be harvested quickly. Emperor can tend to overcrop, so it’s best to thin out fruit to increase the size of what you keep. Fruit has a large, puffy skin that forms completely separate from the flesh, making this mandarin the easiest of all to peel. Flavour is good with only a few seeds. Fruit ripens mid winter, after the Imperial. NOTE: To harvest mandarins over a longer period, plant both an Imperial and Emperor.

Imperial

Australia’s most popular commercially grown mandarin, it is also ideal for the backyard. It produces excellent quality fruit. The fruit is medium to large in size, easy to peel, juicy and has a great strong flavour with a few seeds. Fruit ripens late autumn, into early winter. A strong growing tree, with an upright growth habit. If you only have room for one mandarin, this is the one to plant.

Robbie Engall Seedless

This is a superior form of Satsuma mandarin, selected by the late Robbie Engall. It is a fantastic mandarin for the kids, with large fruit, puffy skin that makes it easy to peel. It has a mild flavour and no seeds. Fruit ripens early, in April and May on a small growing tree, making it ideal for the courtyard garden or in a pot.

Ellendale

This one is an old fashioned variety. Fruit is flat in shape and has a strong, rich flavour with a few seeds. The tree is a medium size when fully grown and has a more horizontal branching shape, making it look similar to an orange tree. Skin is tighter than other mandarins which can make it a challenge to peel. Will ripen in July to August.

Thorny Mandarin

This variety produces small fruit with a very sweet flavour, ripening in mid-winter. Easy to peel skin with seeds. Unfortunately the Thorny mandarin tends to crop bi-annually, cropping very heavily one year and bearing little to no fruit the following year. Although this is a drawback, if you have the room it is worthwhile planting a Thorny as it is the sweetest of all mandarins. Depending on rootstocks, this one can be thorny or thornless. Trifoliata tend to produce the latter.

Honey Murcott

Although named a mandarin, this variety of unknown parentage is more like a mandarin crossed with an orange. The large fruit is flat in shape, with a tight skin and a tendency to be seedy. It has a distinct flavour unlike that of other mandarins, sweet but unique. The fruit ripens late, August into September, making it an ideal addition to the home orchard to increase the harvesting time of mandarins. Strong growing, upright tree.

Japanese Seedless

The tree will grow up to 5m x 4m. The fruit matures from March to April and is large, sweet and juicy. The thin skin is also easily peeled.

For general information on growing citrus trees, click here