Peace Lily

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Spathiphyllum spp.

How to keep them thriving indoors in Melbourne!

Please Note: The information below is specific to this particular variety. For more detailed notes on the general growing conditions required for all Indoor Plants, check out our ‘Growing Indoor Plants Successfully’ factsheet.

The Peace Lily is a much loved indoor plant across the world with easy to maintain lush green foliage and crisp pure white spathe ‘flowers’. The 1989 NASA study ‘Interior Landscape Plants for Air Pollution Abatement’, rated Spathiphyllums highly in removing Benzene, Formaldehyde and Trichloroethylene from the atmosphere. Combined with their CO2 absorbing and O2 producing capabilities, there is a lot to love about these hard working house plants.

Watering

Adjust watering to suit the season. If it is too dry the leaves will tell you by drooping.

In the warmer months it tends to put on growth and needs more water. Water so that the potting mix never dries out, aim for a nice even moistness. In winter allow to dry out a bit between watering, it will need less water.

Never let it sit in water – good drainage is essential.

Light

Bright indirect or filtered light all year round. Can take a bit of direct very early morning light but avoid any more direct sunlight – it can scorch the leaves. Can take poor light conditions for a while, but will not thrive under poor light.

Temperature and humidity

Normal house temperatures suit Peace Lilies. Try to avoid cold drafts. They do appreciate some humidity so misting is beneficial or alternatively, you can put the pot on small stones or blocks to keep it raised, and fill the saucer or slip pot beneath with water. The water evaporates increasing humidity, but keeping the pot raised allows the free drainage essential to a happy indoor plant.

Fertilising

Fertilise monthly in spring and summer with quarter to half strength indoor plant fertiliser. Once a year, flush out any salts that may have accumulated by watering thoroughly and deeply with clean water.
If the flowers are green, then reduce the amount of fertiliser.

Maintenance

General maintenance can be done anytime. Old or tatty leaves should be cut back to the base. Any major trimming, rejuvenation pruning or repotting is best done in spring.

Repotting

• Choose a pot about 5cm wider bigger than the old pot. That should last 1 to 2 years. Try to get a pot not much deeper than the old pot, some added depth is OK, but only 3-5cm maximum.
• Use a good quality potting mix and a pot with good drainage.
• Pat down firmly (removes air-pockets) and water in well using a weak seaweed solution.
• Allow to settle in for a couple of days in a shady spot, then move to a position with bright indirect light and treat as per normal.

Problems

Yellow leaves

• Old leaves naturally turn yellow as they age, before turning brown and dying.
• Lack of fertiliser.
• Overwatering can lead to yellowing
• Stress from moving to a new position, being repotted or divided. Allow time for it to settle in.
• Lack of humidity

Mealy bug

Spray with white oil or pest oil.